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10 Things Everyone Should Know About Tires
By Eric Peters, Automotive Columnist
You probably know tires are made of rubber — but how much more do you know? Here’s a run-through of some important tire-related terminology:
1) Aspect ratio
This technical-sounding term refers to the relationship between the width of a tire and the height of the tire’s sidewall. High-performance “low profile” tires have “low aspect ratios” — meaning their sidewalls are short relative to their width. This provides extra stiffness and thus better high-speed handling and grip — but also tends to result in a firmer (and sometimes, harsh) ride. “Taller” tires tend to provide a smoother ride and better traction in snow.
2) Contact Patch
As your tires rotate, only a portion of the total tread is actually in contact with the ground at any given moment. This is known as the contact patch. Think of it as your tire’s “footprint.” Sport/performance-type tires are characterized by their wider footprint — more tread is in contact with the ground — which provides extra grip, especially during hard acceleration on dry pavement and during high-speed cornering.
3) Treadwear indicators
These are narrow bands built into the tread during manufacturing that begin to show when only 1/16 of the tire’s tread remains. Also called wear bars, treadwear indicators are there to provide an obvious visual warning that it’s time to shop for new tires.
4) Speed ratings
An alpha-numeric symbol you’ll find on your tire’s sidewall that tells you the maximum sustained speed the tire is capable of safely handling. An H-rated tire, for example, is built to be safe for continuous operation at speeds up to 130 mph. Most current model year family-type cars have S (112 mph) or T (118 mph) speed ratings. High performance cars often have tires with a V (149 mph) or ZR (in excess of 149 mph) speed rating. A few ultra-performance cars have W (168 mph) and even Y (186 mph) speed-rated tires.
5) Maximum cold inflation load limit
This refers to the maximum load that can be carried in a given vehicle with a given type of tires — and the maximum air pressure needed to support that load. In your vehicle’s owner’s manual, you should be able to find the recommended cold inflation load limit. It’s important not to exceed the load limit (or over or under-inflate the tires) as this can lead to stability/handling problems and even tire failure. Always check tire pressure “cold.” Driving creates friction which creates heat; as the tires warm up, the air inside expands, increasing the pressure. Measuring air pressure after driving can give a false reading; you may actually be driving around on under-inflated tires.
6) Load index
This number corresponds to the load carrying capacity of the tire. The higher the number, the higher the load it can safely handle. As an example, a tire with a load index of 89 can safely handle 1,279 pounds — while a tire with a load rating of 100 can safely handle as much as 1,764 pounds. It’s important to stick with tires that have at least the same load rating as the tires that came originally with the vehicle — especially if it’s a truck used to haul heavy loads or pull a trailer. It’s ok to go with a tire that has a higher load rating than the original tires; just be careful to avoid tires with a lower load rating than specified for your vehicle, even if they are less expensive. Saving a few bucks on tires is not worth risking an accident caused by tire failure.
7) Radial vs. bias-ply tire
Bias-ply tires have their underlying plies laid at alternate angles less than 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread; radials have their plies laid at 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread. That’s the technical difference. The reason radial tires are dominant today is that they help improve fuel efficiency and handling; they also tend to dissipate heat better than bias-ply tires. No modern passenger cars come with bias-ply tires these days and their use is generally not recommended. (Exceptions might include older/antique vehicles that originally came equipped with bias-ply tires. Some RVs also used bias-ply tires, etc.) It is very important never to mix radial and bias-ply tires; dangerously erratic handling may result.
8) LT and MS tires
These designations indicate “Light Truck” and “Mud/Snow” — and are commonly found on tires fitted to SUVs and pick-ups. LT-rated tires are more general purpose, built primarily for on-road use — while MS-rated tires typically have more aggressive “knobby” tread patterns designed for better off-road traction.
9) Temporary Use Only
Many modern cars come with so-called “space-saver” tires which are smaller and lighter than a standard or full-size spare tire. They are designed to leave more room in the trunk and be easier for the average person to handle when a roadside tire change becomes necessary. However, they are not designed to be used for extended (or high-speed) driving. Your car will probably not handle (or stop) as well while the Space Saver tire is on – and you should keep your speed under 55 mph and avoid driving on the tire beyond what’s absolutely necessary to find a tire repair shop where you can have your damaged tire repaired or replaced.
10) Treadwear, Traction and Temperature ratings
Each tire has three separate ratings for Treadwear, Traction and Temperature.
Traction ratings run from AA to A to B and C — with C being the lowest on the scale. The ratings represent the tire’s ability to stop on wet pavement under controlled testing conducted by the government. C-rated tires are marginal and should be avoided. Never buy a tire with a Traction rating that isn’t at least equal to the minimum rating specified by the manufacturer of your vehicle.
Temperature ratings from A to B to C — with C being the minimum allowable for any passenger car tire. The ratings correspond to a given tire’s ability to dissipate heat under load; tires with lower ratings are more prone to heat-induced failure, especially if driven at high speeds (or when overloaded). As with Traction ratings, never buy a tire with a Temperature rating that’s less than specified for your vehicle.
Treadwear ratings differ from Traction and Temperature ratings in that they aren’t a measure of a tire’s built-in safety margin. Instead, these ratings — represented by a three digit number — give you an idea of the expected useful life of the tire according to government testing. A tire with a Treadwear rating of 150, for example, can be expected to last about 1.5 times as long as a tire with a Treadwear rating of 100. These are just guides, however. Your tires may last longer (or not) depending on such factors as how you drive, whether you maintain proper inflation pressure and rotate the tires per recommendations — and so on.
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5/24/24
New Crash Tests Show Modest Speed Increases Can Have Deadly Consequences - IIHS News
Drivers want to save time, and local transportation agencies want to improve traffic flow, but at what cost? With posted speed limits increasing on roadways around the country, a vehicle’s ability to protect drivers in crashes is in doubt.
Small speed increases can have huge effects on crash outcomes, as shown in new crash tests by the AAA Foundation for Traffic Safety, the Insurance Institute for Highway Safety (IIHS) and Humanetics. The safety organizations conducted crashes at three different impact speeds (40, 50 and 56 mph). They found the slightly higher speeds were enough to increase the driver's risk of severe injury or death.
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4 Maintenance Tips to Keep Cars Running Over 100,000 Miles
Still, in the same way we take care of our bodies in order to live past the average life expectancy number, proper maintenance can keep a vehicle rolling the tarmac for years and thousands of miles. Here are 4 key maintenance elements to consider if you want your vehicle to run more than 100,000 miles.
1. Oil, Fluids and Filters
In order to run, a car needs fuel. Also, it needs to breathe and to provide minimum friction for the inner dynamic components of the engine. That is why replacing fluids and filters and respecting maintenance intervals are a critical step in ensuring an extended lifetime for any vehicle. Normally, the only fluid that must be changed on a regular basis is motor oil. Others, such as gearbox oil, coolant or brake fluid must be refilled to their optimum level if the level drops; otherwise, there is no need to tamper with them. Don't try to be cheap when replacing motor oil on your car! Go for a product that matches settings written in your car's service manual. Other oils may be cheaper or work better in other vehicles but may produce lower performance on yours.
Replacing motor oil means you will also have to replace the oil filter. Again, don't try to save a few dollars by acquiring a cheaper, low quality product; you will save more on the long run with a performance oil filter. Remember that your car also owns a fuel filter, an air filter and a particle filter. Remember to replace those as well, according to the service interval mentioned in your car's service manual.
2. Brakes
Once you've ensured your car is running smooth and at full capacity thanks to its new filters and oil, it is highly recommended to make sure you can get to a full stop just as well as you can accelerate. Again, take your car's service manual and check the indicated maintenance period regarding the vehicle's braking system. If there's none, make sure to check the wear level of your brake pads and replace them when they become thin. Also, after a few tens of thousands of miles, it is highly recommended to replace your brake rotors as well; they may take longer to wear but they aren't indestructible either.
3. Timing belt
A timing belt that ruptures while the engine is running at a high RPM's is a mechanical nightmare. If it happens, chances are your intake and exhaust valves will damage, pistons may crack and your engine may have to undergo a very expensive repair process. If your car features a chain drive, you don't have to worry about this. Still, since there are many cars using a timing belt, replacing your old belt with a new timing belt kit on a regular basis is highly recommended. Replacement intervals differ between car brands and models, so you'll have to look up yours in the service manual or online. The interval is measured in miles, so check your odometer from time to time.
4. Tires
Your car's enhanced braking system is useless unless the vehicle has a strong grip with the ground. Given that the only elements able to provide such grip are the tires, make sure you keep an eye on their wear level. Use a cheap tread-depth gauge to measure how much tread your tires have left. A low tread increases chances of aquaplaning and tire failure. Depending on where you live, season-appropriate tires should be used; you should own a winter as well as a summer set of tires if you live in a climate with four seasons.
Finally, remember to inflate tires to the appropriate pressure mentioned by the producer. This will ensure it will use the whole treat surface and increase mileage as well as grip.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/expert/Antonie_G_Vastinar/1447440
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